Essential Tips for Motorcycle Hearing Protection

If you ever find yourself amongst a group of long-time motorcyclists, you might discover that many riders are repeating questions and responses as their hearing might not be as good as it was when they were young. Long days in the saddle with the wind blowing right over their ears have caused hearing damage that sadly won’t ever get better.  Some will chalk it up to just a part of being a motorcyclist.  But you don’t have to suffer the same fate.  Even if you have been riding for a while, you can reduce the impact of all those miles and keep your hearing going for longer.  Which type of motorcycle hearing protection is right for you?  We’ll cover these in this article & help you keep your hearing five by five.

We sometimes use affiliate links in our content.  This won’t cost you anything extra, but if you purchase something from one of the links, we may earn some money for coffee.  As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.

What is volume?

When an object vibrates in a medium like air, it can cause sound.  The sound propagates in a series of waves.   The spacing between each wave is called the frequency, while the height of each wave is called the amplitude.  These sound waves hit our ears, and we interpret the vibrations as sounds.

Most humans can perceive sound between about 20HZ and 20,000HZ.  Lower frequency sounds are interpreted as low tones, like those from a bass guitar, while the higher frequencies will be sharper sounds, like a whistle.

  Volume is the measure of the intensity of sound waves, also known as the amplitude.  It is measured in decibels on a logarithmic scale.  That means each value on the DB scale is about 10 times louder than the preceding one.  So, unlike a direct scale like miles per hour, where 50 vs. 51 isn’t as substantial a change, a change of 1 DB would be more like 50mph going to 500mph.

Typically, amplitude (and volume) decreases over distance as the energy is dispersed.  The closer you are to the source of the sound, the louder it will be.

How does this impact my ears?

Your ears have three parts:

• Your earlobes help to direct the sounds toward your external ear canal, where the sound continues inward.

• The middle ear has the eardrum and three bones, the malleus, incus, and stapes, which amplify the signal.

• Finally, the inner ear is filled with fluid and tiny hair cells that turn the sound vibrations into electrical signals in your brain.

Due to the amplification, these structures enable us to hear very soft sounds. However, excessive volume can damage and eventually kill the hair cells that convert the vibrations into signals in the brain. Unfortunately, they don’t regrow, reducing our hearing ability after prolonged exposure.

Hearing damage causes & impact

Hearing damage can occur from a single exposure to a very high volume sound or prolonged exposure to high volumes.  It is often associated with tinnitus, a phenomenon where your brain creates sound in a quiet space.  This can happen directly after exposure to a short, substantial sound, like a cannon blast.  It’s often referred to as a ringing in your ears.  It’s not limited to just after a quick, loud noise, as it can arise over prolonged exposure to elevated sounds.  Hearing loss is frustrating when trying to enjoy music or carry on a conversation, and it is often associated with tinnitus, which can be pretty annoying and stress-inducing, so avoiding hearing damage is critical.

Why is this a problem for motorcyclists?

As motorcyclists, we aren’t in a closed, climate-controlled space like in a car.  The engine and exhaust are directly below us, and the wind is directly on us.  The wind might be the most significant contributor.  When I say wind, what I’m referring to is apparent wind.  Even on a calm day, when riding, you experience apparent wind as your bike moves through the air.

Wind noise increases with speed.  While at 10-15MPH, you would experience ~85DB of wind noise.  That’s the same as a food blender.  It is considered the maximum sound level to have for more than eight hours and not have permanent damage.

At 27MPH, you now have 115DB.  This is the equivalent of sandblasting or a loud rock concert.

At 60MPH, it reaches 120DB, a deafening level that can cause immediate hearing loss. Therefore, it is recommended that people never be exposed to 120DB without hearing protection.

Without protection and with continued exposure from each ride, our hearing would naturally get worse over time. While tinnitus symptoms can start with the need to raise the volume on a stereo or ask someone to repeat things, they can also be debilitating.

Fatigue

The constant level of noise can cause not only hearing damage but also fatigue.  Your brain must filter out the noise and strain to listen to relevant sounds like sirens or horns.  At the same time, the constant drone of the noise distracts your ability to focus your eyes on the road.  Competing attention can add more stress to your ride and make you feel tired much faster.  You might want to take a break every 30-60 minutes when not wearing earplugs, while with proper hearing protection, your bladder or your bike’s fuel tank becomes the limiting factor.  Beyond exhaustion, you are more alert with the hearing protection, so an accident is less likely.  It’s easily the cheapest safety & comfort accessory for a motorcycle!

Myths about earplugs

Some motorcyclists argue that wearing earplugs is a terrible idea and “more dangerous” than not wearing them. Below, I’ve compiled several of these myths.

• They will block out all sound, and I won’t hear sirens or horns.

• They are uncomfortable

• It’s too late; I’ve been riding without them for too long.

• My helmet is the quietest on the market, so I don’t need them

Many earplugs available today are filtered, so they block not only all sounds but also those at frequencies we can’t hear or that are annoying, like wind noise. This still enables sounds from sirens, horns, or GPS instructions to come through clearly.

Several varieties of earplugs can be adapted to fit your ear comfortably. The custom-molded options at the upper end will fit seamlessly in your ears.

Hearing damage can’t be reversed, but that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t use hearing protection.  Even if you’ve ridden for years without protection, adding it now can help keep your hearing from worsening.

While a “quiet” helmet is a good option for minimizing noise, none block the noise sufficiently to keep volumes safe.  But, if you have one of these helmets, you may not need to use plugs with the maximum amount of attenuation.

Types of earplugs

Foam

The simplest and often the cheapest are foam earplugs.  You can twist these to make them easier to insert into your ear canal.  Once in, the foam tries to return to its original shape, filling the canal.  However, these are intended to be used one-time and disposable.  A 25-pack is often <$20.  In general, foam earplugs attenuate (reduce the volume) all frequencies the same.  This type of protection is called uniform attenuation.

Pre-molded

Pre-molded earplugs are made from plastic, rubber, or silicone.  Many on the market are uniform-attenuation, like foam plugs.  Some may come with a small cord, making it easier to remove from your ear canal and less likely to lose one.  You can even drape them on your shoulders with the cord around the back of your neck after you’ve removed them from your ears.  The material enables them to be cleaned between uses, so these are usable for a long time with proper care.  Most brands certify at least 100 uses before they need to be replaced.

Some other pre-molded earplugs are filtered, meaning they attenuate different parts of the frequencies at various levels.  This enables them to be used with Bluetooth headsets, not impacting your ability to hear voices clearly.  As mentioned, most humans can only perceive sounds between 20HZ and 20,000hz.  Sounds outside that range can still cause damage, but we don’t hear them.  The filtered plugs have greater attenuation on those frequencies we can’t hear but allow more of the ones we can listen to, so they avoid the “hollow or dead” sound that uniform attenuation earplugs create.

Custom-molded earplugs

Custom-molded earplugs are the top option but also the priciest. They can be the most comfortable because they are molded precisely to your ear canal and outer ear.

Cost per use

The cheap foam earplugs are the most expensive, considering their per-use costs. $0.80 per use or more isn’t unusual.

Pre-molded earplugs are more expensive than foam ones, but they can last 100 uses, so the per-use cost is closer to $0.26.

Custom molded earplugs usually cost >$150.  Many will have earbuds molded into them, allowing hook-up to a headset compatible with a 3.5mm jack.  This is often needed as the larger volume of the plug blocks almost all external sound.  They usually will last 3-5 years.  Remember that your ear’s shape changes over time, so the fit will not be the same.  No product lasts for a lifetime, so budget accordingly.

Recommendations

When I first started riding, I got a sampler pack from Aerostich of several earplugs. It was a great way to try different options between foam and rubber plug designs. I found the rubber plug designs uncomfortable, as the material was quite stiff.  Many of the cheaper rubber plug designs also had a tether cord, which made the ends stick out more & interfered with the helmet, causing more discomfort and often knocking the plugs out when putting on a helmet.  I even tried the custom-molded ones, and while they were comfortable, their size made them more challenging to carry easily in a pocket, so I stuck with foam plugs.  For foam ear plugs, I’ve found having a cord on them isn’t as much of a problem as it is with the rubber plug designs, which tend to be longer.

I have three different helmets that I tend to adjust to the particular bike/mission of the day’s ride. I use earplugs on all three, and not only has this kept my hearing loss to a minimum, but it also helps keep me fresh while riding. I notice I’m less tired when riding with earplugs than when I forget to put them in. That alone makes using earplugs worth it to me.

I didn’t have a motorcycle headset, so blocking all the noise wasn’t as big a deal.  But around ten years ago, I got my first Zumo & tried a set of filtered rubber plugs, and was hooked.

Filtered rubber plugs

My go-to option today is the NoNoise Motorsport edition.  Revzilla | Amazon

No Noise attenuates up to 27.9DB are <$30 and are rated to be used for more than 100 uses.  If adequately cleaned using an alcohol-based spray, they can often last even longer.  They come in a convenient metal case with a keychain attachment.  I keep one on the keys for each bike, so I’ll never forget to have them with me.  I’m reminded to put the earplugs on when putting the keys in the ignition, so it works for me.

Foam plugs

I no longer use foam plugs as my primary earplugs. However, if I lose one of the No Noise plugs while riding, I keep a new pair in each riding jacket and my tank bag on each bike.

While you can buy earplugs in bulk, this isn’t as convenient. If you throw some plugs loose into a bag or pocket, they can get dirty, and then you put that dirty plug into your ear.

I use these corded ones from Palmer Safety today. Each ear pair is in its package, so I can stuff them somewhere on each bike or my jacket and not worry about them getting dirty. They are tethered, which, given that these are my backup pairs anyway makes it less likely that I’d lose another plug and then have no hearing protection on my ride.

Custom molded

I don’t recommend a custom-molded set. They are the most expensive option; comfort depends on how well the mold is done. While some options offer kits to create the mold at home, I’ve found getting a consistent mold harder than going to an audiologist. That tends to add even more cost, so unless you find the filtered rubber plugs or foam plugs don’t work for you, I’d consider these a last resort.