The winter months are upon us, and if you are in the colder climates like the Northeast US, that may mean you stop riding and prepare for the motorcycle off-season. Check out our podcast episode about the end of the riding season.
If you put your bike away, it’s essential to maintain it properly so that it is ready for any warm winter days or spring when the temperatures and road conditions make it easier to ride.
Storing your bike
Ideally, you want your bike in a climate-controlled location. This most often would be a heated garage, but some riders go so far as to bring their bike into their living room. In any case, this protects your motorcycle from external moisture, wildlife, and extreme temperature swings.
I use a dehumidifier in my garage to prevent excessive moisture from accumulating. While this is more critical in warmer temperatures where the air can hold more moisture if your garage is heated, the air can still have a significant amount of water, so keeping it in check can protect your bike.
If you have to store your bike outside, a weatherproof cover can reduce the damage winter weather does to your bike. These include a simple tarp, fabric cover, or a hard shell bike shelter.
What to guard against
Moisture is one of the worst enemies of a bike in storage. If allowed to stay on external parts of your bike, it can cause corrosion, ruining the finish, or even rusting out critical components.
Internal moisture can wreak havoc on the engine and other components. In the engine, this can cause internal corrosion, and given it is sitting still for potentially months at a time, the damage could be significant.
First, your fuel tank. If you are in an area with ethanol fuel, you should know it is hydrophilic and absorbs water. If you have a metal fuel tank, this water could begin to rust inside your tank.
In your engine, the oil may have contaminants, including water, that could corrode the internals. In a water-cooled bike, your coolant sits in the engine’s water jacket, and any pollutants there can cause issues.
There are ways to mitigate some of this. The best way is to keep riding your bike. A used motorcycle will avoid any issues of stagnant fuel, oil, or coolant and have opportunities to burn off any standing moisture in the exhaust. We have tips on how to ride in colder weather. If you still choose to park your bike, there are some recommendations to minimize the impact of moisture and other contaminants.
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Preparing your bike for the winter
First, it’s good to take the time to go over every part of the bike. A good cleaning is your first step, removing any dirt that could retain moisture and allowing you to see all the bike parts. Check for any loose bolts, and see if any parts need replacements due to wear. Tires and brake pads are everyday wear items, so see if they need to be replaced.
Fuel tank
Make sure it is as full as possible. This will minimize any air in the tank that may contain water vapor. Add a fuel stabilizer to help reduce water vapor and evaporation. Using a fuel stabilizer anytime your bike sits for at least three weeks is a good idea. I ride year-round, but not with all of my bikes. The two “naked” bikes are stored for the winter & I use Sta-Bil fuel stabilizer in both.
Carburetor
The bowl should be cleared of any fuel so it isn’t sitting there gumming it up. On your last ride, before putting the bike away, close the fuel petcocks and allow the engine to run until it dies, thus clearing the carbs. If you want to maximize it, remove your carb and use carb cleaner to clean up any remnants.
Engine oil
Drain the oil from the engine and fill it with fresh oil. This will remove any contaminants in the oil that could affect the engine. Some riders choose to “save money” using automotive oil instead of motorcycle-specific oil. Follow that approach at your own risk. Most motorcycles are smaller engines with higher performance and often have an integrated transmission. Their needs differ from a car’s engine, and the manufacturers will specify oils that maximize longevity with appropriate additives. Use the correct weight and specs from your owner’s manual. For example, you may need 5W30 with JASO T904. Penny wise, pound foolish is the critical attitude here; saving a couple of bucks using automotive oil could result in significant engine damage later.
Coolant
Drain and replace the coolant in your water-cooled bike. Like engine oil, this ensures the bike sits with fresh fluids and no contaminants are allowed to sit with the bike. Take the time to review the fluid you drain and see if it indicates any issues with the radiator, such as any particles in the output that may require repairs.
Battery
You’ll want to have your battery on a tender of some sort so that it doesn’t lose charge from sitting. While I’ve used the Battery Tender units on my bikes for years, I’ve been switching over all of my bikes to use the Optimate chargers. I’ve found these extend the life of my batteries more than my old Tenders did. Especially relevant on my R18, which has a very tight battery box that is tough to fit a pigtail, the Optimate 4 can work with Canbus so that I can charge the battery through the BMW plug instead of adding a pigtail. If you have more than one bike, both Battery Tender and Optimate are available in multi-unit versions. These require your bikes to be pretty close to one another, so I like the flexibility that dedicated ones provide, but they are an option, mainly if you have limited outlets. I use the maintenance chargers year-round on my motorcycles. Anytime a bike will be parked for more than a week, I put it on a tender. Check out our article on motorcycle chargers.
Brake fluid
Brake fluid is hygroscopic so that it will absorb water. I like to flush the brakes to remove old brake fluid, leaving a clean, fresh fluid in the reservoirs and the brake lines. While I do this, I check the brake pads and see if they need to be replaced.
Cover
If your bike is sitting, it’s best to protect it from dust by using a cover. Covers are made for this purpose if you keep your bike in a garage. They allow the bike to breathe so the cover doesn’t trap moisture. I use the Dormex line from Oxford. It’s not that expensive, and I’ve had good results keeping the bikes clean and moisture free all winter.
Covers meant for outdoor use will have water barriers, which makes sense to keep the outside elements from coming in, but if used indoors, it can trap water inside, so use an appropriate cover. When I lived in an apartment & had to store my bikes outdoors, I used the Dowco Guardian Weatherall Plus. It was robust and kept snow & rain off the bike.
Bike upgrades
Winter downtime is a perfect opportunity to perform any upgrades or significant maintenance you’ve been putting off. I replaced the starter motor on my 1972 BMW R75/5 last winter since, after 50 years, it was a bit tired. It made it much easier to live with the bike this riding season.
Add bags to support upcoming trips or improve the wind protection on your motorcycle for more comfort. Our article on extending your riding season has some great examples of add-ons for your bike.
Gear for next season
You’ve wrapped up another year of riding, and you probably have some perspectives on the gear you’ve used. Some of it may be working well for you, some may not solve all of your riding needs, and some might be aging out and ready for replacement. The winter is the perfect time to reflect on this and get some new gear for next season. As many riders pause their riding at this time of year, there are plenty of deals to buy gear in the off-season, so you can save a lot of money buying now.
Renew your helmet
Did you know that you should replace your helmet every five years? While many will argue this is a money grab, materials break down over time. The EPS is the primary safety feature; over time, it won’t provide the same protection as it did while new. With the sales running in the winter months, it is a perfect time to replace your lid. If you are keen on extending when you can ride, look at a full-face or modular helmet, as those provide the most protection from the elements.
Hot weather
Mesh gear works great as the temperatures climb into the 80s & 90s, protecting while allowing excellent airflow. It is often cooler to wear mesh gear than no gear. A good mesh jacket makes a big difference. Mesh pants can feel like a luxury, but they aid in keeping you comfortable on the bike. A water-filled vest can act like an air conditioner in hot weather, providing additional evaporative cooling. But be aware that these won’t work effectively in muggy conditions, just like your sweat can’t cool you in high-humidity situations, as no evaporation can occur if the air is already saturated. They can make it feel 10-15 degrees cooler, especially in those 90+ degree days. Check out our article on staying cool in hot weather riding.
Cooler weather
Maybe your current gear is only suitable for hot weather, and riding in cooler weather was uncomfortable even in cooler summer evenings or mornings. Consider another jacket that would be an excellent pairing to your current gear. Good base layers can insulate. Our article on riding in cooler weather has a ton of examples.
Wet weather
Have you been caught out in the rain while riding this year & been soaked? If you have “rain gear” but find you were hot & sweaty while wearing it and still feel a bit wet? This is when something like Gore-Tex or similar breathable gear can make a difference. There’s no need to pull over and put on your rain gear; you’re already wearing it!
Planning rides for next season
Just because your bike is parked for the winter doesn’t mean you can’t think of your next ride. Are you keen on making that cross-country ride to Sturgis, Americade, or Daytona? Start planning the ride out there. I like to use Rever for route planning as it can find good, fun roads ideal for a motorcycle. If it is a multi-day trip, I want to break it up by day, so one route per day starts at where I last stayed and ends at my next accommodation.
Why not try MotoCamping?
While some riders like to stay in hotels when they travel, I love camping. On a bike, you travel through the environment, feeling the temperature changes as you descend into a valley or climb a mountain, smelling the freshly cut grass in the fields you pass. Camping keeps this same experience going. Motocamping is different than car camping, & you don’t want some massive, heavy gear that would fit in the trunk of your car but be out of place on a bike.
Fortunately, a company run by motorcyclists caters specifically to camping on a motorcycle. Ben and Mary at MotoCampNerd research and test out a ton of gear to find the best stuff for the motorcyclist. It’s a great small business run by a pair of passionate motorcyclists. They even have a section on guides to motocamping if you are new to it and a list of motorcycle-friendly campgrounds.
Adventure riding
You have that new BMW GS, KTM, or one of the many popular adventure bikes now available, but you’ve mostly been pavement-bound? Want to combine your trips with a bit of dirt and real adventure, maybe adding in camping along the way? Consider trying out one of the Backcountry Discovery Routes. The volunteer team at BDR has been building routes all over the USA. They range from multi-day full BDR to BDR-X routes that are more of a loop. I completed the Mid-Atlantic BDR this summer immediately following the BMW MOA rally in Virginia, using it as my return to my home in the Northeast.
Local Day Rides
While the big trips are always fun to plan, sometimes you need something closer to home, and you can’t spend two weeks on a BDR. Please take a look at our coffee rides for inspiration. We’ve sampled many coffee shops in the northeast, and new ones are published regularly. Routes and a shop review are in each ride, so maybe you’ll find something you’d like to try.
